Hexam

Extract from The New Travel Book -
North of Watford Gap - John Brown ..
 

 Following a rather uncomfortable night spent in a meagre guest house, run by a hatchett-faced, old hariden, who should have been roasted on a slow spit decades ago for running such a bloody miserable establishment, I set off in a rather grumpy state of mind – my destination, Hadrian's Wall. I had not intended to stop off at Hexham, but drawn, siren-like, to its obvious charms by a large brown and white road sign that stated – Visit Historic Hexam and lose yourself in its ancient charms and welcoming people. Well the last sentence wasn't actually on the sign, but it was exactly what awaited me in wonderful Hexam.
 
 Hexham sits approx 20 miles west of Newcastle and is the largest town in West Northumberland. Accessed from the A69 Newcastle to Carlisle road, it sits on the banks of the River Tyne. There has been a settlement here since Saxon times and during its long and somewhat chequered history the name has evolved from Hutoldesham to Hestoldesham, Hextoldesham and finally Hexham. In 1571, Hexham was incorporated into the County of Northumberland and became an ecclesiastical peculiar of the Diocese of York. Hexam has a wonderful Abbey church, rebuilt in the 12th century. The town has a lovely compact feel to it, with meandering streets connected by darting alleyways, which seem to beacon you on to your next mystery vista. Among its many charms one building in particular caught my eye. part way along the main street sat, what had once been the 'Old Pharmacy'.